F1 2020 Game: Singapore Grand Prix Setup Guide – Career Mode, My Team, Time Trial
The Marina Bay Street Circuit is the one of the most technically challenging in Formula 1.
F1 2020 was released earlier this month and Formula 1 fans around the world are sinking their teeth into it. If you haven’t purchased yet, our review will leave you in no doubt that it’s a brilliant game.
The Singapore GP was F1’s first night race and is the most physically demanding on the calendar. The 2020 iteration of the race may have been cancelled, but you can still enjoy the Marina Bay Street Circuit in F1 2020.
Setups aren’t easy to perfect in the city state but don’t worry, we’re here to help! Our setup guide for the Singapore GP gives you the best opportunity to reach the top step of the podium in both My Team and Career Mode.
High downforce is king in Singapore, you have to use Monaco levels of wing angles to be fast through the corners.
There are some long straights at this track, including three DRS zones, but you have to sacrifice straight line speed.
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10 on the front wing and 11 on the rear wing is fastest around here, you can go 11/11 if you’re suffering with understeer though. This will also help your tyre life, particularly out of slow and medium speed corners.
Transmission dictates how your traction will behave and how stable the car is through corners. An open differential makes traction more gradual but reduces it overall.
Almost all of the corner exits are major traction zones, as most corners are 90 degree left or right-handers in Singapore.
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We went for 75% off-throttle diff and 50% on-throttle. More traction is of course great but the rear end is like a bucking bronco after a few laps of the race, especially on higher fuel.
A smoother traction will help you out massively, but if you want to turn the on-throttle diff up, that is an option. Be aware that your rear tyres will wear a lot faster though, and probably prevent you doing a one-stop.
If you drive conservatively and start on the mediums, the one-stop is definitely a possibility in Singapore. This is also the fastest strategy by far too on a circuit where it’s difficult to pass.
With the lower tyre pressures you should be running, you can afford to go for near-max camber and toe angles.
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We opted for the front camber to be -2.60, with the rear set at -1.10. The toe angles need be relatively low at 0.06 on the front and 0.23 on the rear.
Suspension settings determine how your car will mechanically handle through corners and over the kerbs.
The kerbs are you friend in Singapore, you’ll regularly be riding over them while chasing lap time. You’ll therefore need to go for the softest springs possible, 1 for both the front and rear axles.
You can go for stiffer springs, but this will likely end in a spin for you, especially as your tyre wears through the race.
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The anti-roll bars need to be middle of the road for Singapore. You need a responsive car but there aren’t many high-speed direction changes either.
We went with 6 on the front and rear, but increase these values if you’re struggling through Turns 11 and 12 and the final sector chicanes.
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Finally, the ride height needs to be low in order to aid straight-line acceleration. We opted for 3 on both the front and rear but you could go lower than this thanks to Singapore being a very flat track.
Your brakes will take a pounding in Singapore and overheating them is a common issue in Singapore.
Lockups aren’t usually a big issue though, so brake pressure can be relatively high at 85%.
The front brake bias should be set to 55% to prevent rear lock-ups. If you’re locking the front though, change this value to accommodate.
The only change to setups in F1 2020 is that you can now set the tyre pressures for each individual tyre rather than being limited to the front and rear axles.
The tyre pressures need to be relatively low here, thanks in part to the relentless barrage of corners. These sections don’t allow the fronts to cool down, meaning that thermal degradation can be a major problem.
Set both of the front axle’s tyres to 23.4 psi, high enough to aid turn-in but not so high that the temperatures spiral out of control.
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To help the rears out of the traction zones, 20.7 psi on the left and right is ideal. This is low but not so low that you’ll lose temperature down the straights and also helps conserve them on a rear-limited track.