F1 2019 Game: Brazilian Grand Prix Wet Setup Guide
Rain is a regular occurance at Interlagos, so preparation is the key to victory in Brazil.
The Autódromo José Carlos Pace (commonly referred to as Interlagos) is both a favourite of the fans and drivers of Formula 1. The twisty and undulating circuit is nestled inside the neighbourhood of Interlagos and is the only “classic” circuit on the F1 calendar that has an anti-clockwise layout.
Interlagos has changed a lot over the years, but has maintained the same core characteristics that made it so popular in the first place. F1 first staged the Brazilian Grand Prix in Interlagos in 1973 and the circuit has continuously hosted the event since the 1990 redesign.
READ MORE: All F1 2019 setups
The future of Formula 1 at Interlagos has been in doubt for a number of years now, as Brazil has struggled to legitimise hosting world-class motorsport as millions suffer in poverty. The circuit has also experienced issues such as violent crime threatening the teams, putting fans from other nations off from attending.
From 2020, the Brazilian GP will be hosted in Rio de Janeiro, on a new purpose-built circuit. So, enjoy Sao Paulo while you can, as it might not be included in the F1 2020 game!
Rain is always a possibility in Brazil and causes chaos thanks to the layout of the circuit. 1993, 2003, 2008, 2012 and 2016 are classic examples of Grands Prix that have been rain-affected and thrilling as a result. With that in mind, here’s the best setup for wet weather in Interlagos in F1 2019!
The wing angles are always a tricky one to get right in Brazil. The corners are long but also relatively low speed for their length, which means that you don’t require as much downforce as you’d expect.
Furthermore, you need the wings to be flatter than normal to ensure you’re fast down the straights and not a sitting duck.
I find that an almost stock setup of 5 on the front and 6 on the rear is best. This gives you enough stability and front bite to be quick around the bends but also fast enough on the two main straights.
The aim of the game in Interlagos is to be smooth, attacking the corners around here usually ends badly. The same goes for applying the throttle, while a more locked differential will give you more grip, it also makes the re-application of the throttle more dangerous.
The run up to the start/ finish straight is a particularly tricky area to get the hammer down, the rear end constantly wants to get away from you. 60% on-throttle differential and 80% for off-throttle diff are the best values to allow you to have the least amount of tail-happy moments.
Tyre wear isn’t the biggest issue in Interlagos, a 1-stop is possible in the dry and the wet, but you can’t be too brave with the camber and toe angles. Grip in the wet is at an even bigger premium than in the dry, but tyre wear skyrockets when your angles are too low.
Camber angles of -2.7 degrees on the front and -1.2 degrees on the rear with toe angles of 0.07 on the front and 0.26 on the rear are the lowest you can get away with. If there still isn’t enough grip for your liking, you can lower these settings further, but it could well turn your race into a 2-stop.
The kerbs in Interlagos are ones you shouldn’t use much, but there are some areas (such as the Senna S) where they can’t be avoided. The kerbs aren’t harsh, but you have to make the springs soft (4 on the front and 3 on the rear) to avoid spinning out on them.
There aren’t many high-speed direction changes in Interlagos, but you have to leave the anti-roll bar relatively soft to allow the car to fly through the Senna S and Ferradura. 5 on the front and 4 on the rear allows the car to roll suitably around the corners.
The ride height is the usual 3 on the front and 4 on the rear. This doesn’t change in the wet, because although you need more ground clearance, the car is lifted up by the bigger tyres.
There aren’t many long braking zones in Interlagos, the one at the end of the back-straight being the exception. Therefore, brake pressure can be lower than normal, which is compounded further by having to have lower pressures in the wet.
Locking up is more common in the rain (thanks to the lower levels of grip) so around 84% pressure is ideal. The brake bias should be a little more to the rear than regular, 52% to the front is spot on in Brazil.
Tyre pressures can be higher in the wet thanks to the lower track temperatures. They have to be pumped up more as well, as higher pressures maintain the internal temps better down the long straights into the braking zones.
24.2psi on the fronts and 21.5psi on the rears is the highest I could get away with without my rubber wearing out too fast.